“The future’s uncertain and the end is always near”, sang Jim Morrison. Bikers generally like The Doors, perhaps because the essence of Jim’s poetry speaks to us at a visceral level. Perhaps. The future is indeed uncertain as I set off from Bordeaux towards my next intended stop in Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Continue reading “The Long Ride South (part 2: a Brush with Death)”
There was no going back. And a week in Normandy, even a challenging one, seemed OK: that’s why I’d signed up for the tour in the first place. Rock up, do the riding, head out.
That is until everything else happened.
Continue reading “Best Laid Plans”
“It’s better to arrive at Auschwitz by bike than by train”
The Holocaust is one of the most difficult things to write about or to make films about. It is the subject which rookie director Catherine Lurie Continue reading “Film Review: Back to Berlin “
“My biggest thrill is when I plan something and it fails. My mind is then filled with ideas on how I can improve it.”
~ Soichiro Honda
5,244km later, the first journey is complete, the loop is closed. This is not part of the narrative, more a join on the much wider arc of thought and experience.
I had the blessing of Ted Simon, a machine built by the disciples of Continue reading “9 Lessons For The Solo Motorcycle Adventurer (learned the hard way)”
There is a strong wind but the skies are clear. The scenic route from the West Country back to London goes via the A38 and the A303 which runs through picturesque Wiltshire. It takes in several Stone, Bronze and Iron age sites and monuments, the most significant one of these being Continue reading “The Best is Yet to Come”
It takes only a few minutes to get from one side of Santander to the other. At the waterfront near the ferry port there is Continue reading “The Pilgrim Returns”
Guernica is a few sombre miles behind me when I espy something I’d not seen before in real life: a Continue reading “Biscay Blues”
The morning comes and I am still undecided as to which way to head. I type a random address in Santander into the satnav to see which routes are available. There are several, via Continue reading “Back in the Basque Country”
From Lyon to Castelnaud La Chapelle it’s nearly 600km. Not a short run, made longer by the fact that a considerable section of it is tiny rural lanes, many of Continue reading “En Garde!”
Solitude and loneliness are different things. During a few nights, on my own in a pension or guesthouse bedroom, I experience Continue reading “My Echo, My Shadow and Me”
My body is changing visibly and invisibly. The neck muscles are Continue reading “Liberté de Lyon”
I have no real plan from Prague onwards, except to try and get to Castelnaud for the weekend. Munich is in a convenient location on the map, and my time Continue reading “Austrian High, Swiss Low”
Moving south along the Autobahn towards Dresden, rolling at a comfortable velocity somewhere in the high Continue reading “Prague Autumn; Bavaria Bound”
Today is the first day without the threat of rain anywhere along my route, so the waterproofs are happily packed away. Breakfast is Continue reading “I’m Not a Donut”
The morning entails the routine which is becoming familiar: shower, repack everything, vitamins, sun block, gear. I say my goodbyes and head out. A fuel stop a few kilometres beyond Amsterdam. The previous Continue reading “Rocking Reeperbahn”
One is jolted awake by loud distorted bird noises being piped through the ship’s radio. In a pitch black room which appears to be swaying Continue reading “‘Dam It”
Setting off from Zenith Motorcycles after final checks, I swing by Halfords who sold me a faulty single barrel pump. A shop assitant, Sin, is extremely helpful and replaces it with a working one without qualms. I roll to the border of our neighbourhood escorted by my best friend Yvonne on her Suzuki Van Van. She turns West, I turn Continue reading “The Norse Emissary”
Planning is for sensible people. My own planning has consisted of putting a few waypoints into Google Maps and having dinner with a motorcycling living legend, who specifically advised me not to overplan. Continue reading “Planning, Prepping, Packing”
Blac Ridere 